I mean, am I missing something? Should I be impressed by an opened soup can sitting on a glass shelf?
Well, I guess if it is presented in a way that actually says something; it's worth something. While the form of modern art is tied to its general "emptiness", that doesn't mean these methods and objects can't be used to express the profound. Have they ever been? No clue. Whatever you're missing, I'm missing too.
Last line of that article: "It is by nature, and by breadth of ownership, a labour of the common man and not of the elite". While correct from a certain perspective, the elite here are the elite of cookery itself who maintain these traditions no matter what. The cooking comes first, so it is great. If breadth of ownership really contributes though, I guess all these metal "listening" normals aren't so bad. Somehow I don't think it matters quite as much, though it matters. The article very accurately identifies the concern that so often intrudes, "money" (selfishness).